To keep your prized apple and pear trees in good shape it’s time for some Summer Pruning, Apples and pears trained as restricted forms (cordon, espalier, fan, pyramid). Trees grown as standards or bushes are managed with winter pruning.
Timing: July to September
Difficulty: Simple
Summer Pruning is Suitable for..
Summer pruning is mainly for apples and pears trained as restricted forms such as:
- Cordon
- Espalier
- Fan
- Pyramid
- Spindlebush
Trees grown as standards or bushes are better managed with winter pruning.
When to Prune Apples and pears
- Timing: Summer prune when the bottom third of the new shoots is stiff and woody.
- For Pears: From late-July
- For Apples: Mid- to late August, about ten days later in the north
- To Reduce Secondary Growth: Can be delayed until September when larger terminal buds have formed at the shoot tips, and the shoots have stopped growing.
- Factors to Consider: Judge the exact timing based on the plant’s vigor, weather, and locality.
How to Prune Apples and pears
Summer pruning helps light reach the fruit by cutting back new shoots.
- Identify New Shoots:
- Look for new shoots that are stiff and woody along their bottom third, with dark green leaves and a cluster of leaves at the base.
- Prune Laterals:
- Cut back new shoots (laterals) that are more than 20cm (8in) long from the main stem to three leaves above the basal cluster.
- Avoid pruning new shoots that are less than 20cm (8in) long, as they usually end in fruit buds.
- Prune Sub-laterals:
- Cut back new shoots growing from existing sideshoots (sub-laterals) to one leaf above the basal cluster.
- Remove Vigorous Growth:
- Completely remove any upright, vigorous growth.
- Manage Secondary Growth:
- If new growth appears after summer pruning, prune it back in September (or October if pruning later) to one leaf beyond the previous cut.
- If secondary growth persists, leave some longer shoots unpruned to draw up the sap and reduce growth elsewhere. Cut these back to one bud in spring, along with any vigorous growth above the level of the supporting wire.
Pruning Mid Summer on YouTube
Here are some guidelines for pruning Mid Summer apple trees:
Remove Water Sprouts and Suckers: Look for vigorous vertical shoots (water sprouts) growing from the main branches or trunk. Also, check around the base of the tree for suckers (shoots growing from the rootstock). Remove these as they consume the tree’s energy and don’t contribute to fruit production. Trim Diseased and Dead Wood: Inspect the tree for any diseased or dead branches.
These can be identified by their withered appearance, lack of new growth, or signs of disease. Prune them back to healthy wood, cutting just outside the branch collar (the swollen area at the base of the branch).
Thin Out Overcrowded Branches: If you notice branches that are crossing or rubbing against each other, or if the canopy is too dense, consider thinning out some of the branches. This opens up the canopy, allowing better air circulation and sunlight penetration, which helps reduce disease and promote better fruit ripening.
Remove Small or Misshapen Fruits: In mid-summer, some apple trees may have an excess of small or misshapen fruits. Removing these can improve the size and quality of the remaining fruits. Thin the fruit clusters by hand, leaving space between apples to encourage larger, healthier fruit development.
Prune for Sunlight: Assess the branches and identify those that are blocking sunlight from reaching the inner parts of the tree. Prune back branches that are shading the center to encourage balanced growth and fruiting throughout the tree. Avoid Heavy Pruning: Mid-summer pruning should be limited to light and corrective pruning. Avoid any drastic pruning, as this can lead to excessive regrowth that may not have time to harden off before winter.
Remember, the primary pruning season for apple trees is during the dormant period, typically in late winter or early spring. At that time, more significant structural pruning can be done to shape the tree and remove any damaged or unwanted branches. Always use clean and sharp pruning tools to make clean cuts, and sanitize them between cuts if there is a risk of spreading diseases. Keep in mind that the specific pruning needs might vary depending on the variety and age of your apple tree.
If you’re uncertain about how to proceed or have a young tree, it’s a good idea to consult with a local horticulturist or arborist for personalized guidance. Training a fruit tree along a fence is a great way to maximize space in your garden and create a beautiful and productive feature. This technique is known as “espalier,” which involves pruning and training the tree to grow flat against the fence or wall. It not only saves space but also makes fruit picking and maintenance easier.
What Next?
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